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But the night's glitter could not hide the anxiety of an industry squeezed between the recession and the government's strict immigration policy. Yet restaurant owners say that while a string of colleges with good teaching could help ease the problem for certain restaurants, it would not suit all restaurants — and it may not be enough to protect the industry. Tessa Wright, of Queen Mary, University of London, who interviewed ethnic minority and migrant workers in the catering and hotel industry in , said to hour weeks were common for workers. The dishes are sold everyday in the college canteen to students and staff — and while it may not be exactly the same as Mummyji used to make, the seekh kebabs, lamb green chilli, fish tikka masala and naan I try are fresh and tasty. The sector also has an image problem, according to Ali. Azmal Hossein runs four restaurants on Brick Lane and helped set up the union to end the exploitation. The rule change to clamp down on chefs, for example, is seen by many as targeting immigrants from south Asia in the context of other mooted policies such as raising the age of spouse visas or raising the income threshold for those who wish to bring family members to the UK.

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This journey from exotic treat to British comfort food, however, has given curry an emotional pull few other cuisines can rival. On my right, doctor Nadia Javed is tucking into her lamb karahi with rice and naan in her lunch break from the nearby Royal Infirmary, while on my left cab driver Simon Hope, 32, has popped in between fares to wolf down a huge meal of lamb chops, lamb karahi, prawns and naan. Yet the lines of small competing restaurants also highlight the problems inherent in the industry's economic model. In factories, too, British workers are reported to have refused to work with Asian immigrants "because they could not bear the smell of garlic". The company, he points out, could not use "curry college" chefs, because they only allow chefs to cook dishes from their home regions, he says, so they can offer their customers authentic Indian food.

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Pat Chapman, founder of the Curry Club, and author of the Good Curry Guide , notes, "You just instinctively know they are struggling", while Backman adds that he is "increasingly gloomy" about the sector's outlook for the next few years, believing Indian restaurants will "continue to lose share to the rest of the eating out market" if the recession continues. But walking down London's Brick Lane, with its razzle of neon lighting, discount offers and lengthy Identikit menus, it is easy to see how curry houses have adapted to meet demand, just as the British grew to love curries. The bland words hide a growing crisis in the country's curry industry. His Gujarati restaurant, Prashad, focuses on modern Indian cooking, he says, and takes inspiration from leading London restaurants The Cinnamon Club and Tamarind. They are not Indian restaurants in the proper sense of the word.

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Description: Azmal Hossein runs four restaurants on Brick Lane and helped set up the union to end the exploitation. Bangladeshi chefs don't have the health and safety or hygiene training they need here. By , there were 3, Indian restaurants in Britain and "going for a curry" became a standard evening out. I t's a cold, rainy day in Bradford and the balti restaurants and fast food outlets offering "desi" [Asian] milkshakes, have yet to fill up. Offering cheap meals to young people in a newly affluent society was possible through cutting corners in the preparation of the food, but also by paying low wages to staff. Angelo Towse, 33, is frowning in concentration as he carefully folds, and stuffs, samosas.
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